A coalition of Hazara academics, jurists, and human rights activists has issued a formal open letter addressed to prominent fashion designer Gabriela Hearst and the Firozkoh Foundation, denouncing the alleged erasure of specific community identity in a high-profile runway presentation.
The controversy centers on the Spring/Summer 2027 collection unveiled by Gabriela Hearst at the Palais de Tokyo during Paris Fashion Week. Particular scrutiny was drawn to “Look 12″—a black dress featuring complex embroidered star motifs on the bodice. While the brand and the Firozkoh Foundation published joint statements describing the garments as historical textile interpretations originating from 1950s Ghazni Province crafted with raw silk, community representatives argue that generic geographic labeling obscures the distinct heritage of the design.
According to the open letter, the incorporated embroidery directly mirrors the traditional Hazara ritual design known as “Dastmal Muhar.” Activists contend that presenting indigenous cultural artifacts without explicitly crediting their specific ethnic origin contributes to a broader systemic trend of cultural appropriation and erasure. The signatories have formally demanded that the fashion house and collaborating foundations issue an official, public acknowledgment recognizing the authenticity and precise cultural roots of the Hazara women’s craft.
The dispute highlights growing sensitivities surrounding ethical sourcing, cultural representation, and attribution in international fashion collaborations involving traditional artisan communities from developing and conflict-affected regions.